Zion National Park
Zion National Park was the first stop on our tour of Utah’s Mighty 5, also known as the Big 5, and it made an unforgettable first impression. The name Zion comes from the Hebrew Bible and means “sanctuary” or “kingdom of God.” After seeing this extraordinary landscape, I can understand why the name feels so fitting.
Even the scenic drive to the park entrance feels like an adventure. Towering cliffs and rugged rock formations hint at the spectacular scenery ahead. Then the road disappears into the mile-long Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel, carved straight through the mountain. When you emerge on the other side, the landscape suddenly opens into a breathtaking panorama of towering red cliffs, deep canyons, and dramatic rock walls sculpted over time by the Virgin River.
Get there early to get a parking spot
Once you arrive at the Visitor Center, you can’t drive any farther into Zion Canyon, so park your car and hop aboard one of the park’s frequent shuttles. The free shuttles make exploring the valley easy, and you rarely have to wait long for the next one. With nine stops along the route, you can jump off and explore the sights without worrying about missing anything.
Our first day at Zion was short, so we treated it as a scouting trip and used the time to plan our next two days. We rode the shuttle all the way to the final stop, which takes you to the trailhead for The Narrows. We hopped off and followed the Riverside Walk Trail for a while to get a feel for what awaited us the next day.
The Riverside Walk makes an easy and incredibly scenic introduction to Zion Canyon. The paved trail follows the Virgin River beneath towering cliffs and lush vegetation, giving us a preview of the dramatic scenery we would experience when we tackled The Narrows. The round-trip walk covers about 2.2 miles, making it a perfect way to explore the canyon without committing to a strenuous hike.
We took the shuttle back to our car and went into Springdale to pick up our rented gear for our Narrows hike tomorrow. Heavy-duty water boots, neoprene socks, and sturdy hiking poles.
Day 1: The Narrows at Zion
The Narrows ranks among the world’s most popular hikes, but we approached it with plenty of hesitation. The thought of battling swift currents and icy water made us nervous. Still, we figured this might be our only chance to experience Zion, so we decided to go for it. Even if we only made it 50 yards upriver, we could say we had conquered The Narrows.
We geared up, stepped into the Virgin River, and started hiking upstream. To our surprise, the water felt much warmer than we expected. After a short while, we found our rhythm and grew more comfortable navigating the rocky riverbed. We hiked for about three hours and covered roughly 1½ miles upriver.
Most of the way, the water reached just above our shoes, although it rose to mid-thigh in several deeper sections. At times, we could scramble along the shoreline, but most of the time, the river stretched from bank to bank. Towering sandstone walls surrounded us on both sides, creating an unforgettable corridor of red rock, rushing water, and breathtaking scenery.
After stopping for a snack, we decided to turn around and head back. We felt disappointed that we wouldn’t reach the narrowest section of the canyon, which lay another mile or so upstream. Our legs had started to tire, and we also needed to reach the shuttle stop before the final shuttle left.
Missing that last shuttle would have forced us to walk nearly six miles down the road to our car. We definitely didn’t want to end our epic Zion adventure that way!
It was a great hike and we are very glad we did it. Would we do it again? You bet!
Day 2: Scout Lookout to Angels Landing Trailhead
We got an early start for this hike, knowing it would challenge us. Thankfully, the day stayed cool and overcast, which made the climb much more manageable. The trail runs 3.8 miles round trip and climbs about 1,100 feet through roughly 45 switchbacks. Just as we did with The Narrows, we decided to hike as far as we felt comfortable and then turn around. In the photo below, the black arrow points to the top of Angels Landing from the trailhead far below.
We stopped at Zion Lodge for a quick breakfast before heading up the trail. The first half-mile felt easy, with a mostly flat path that followed the river. Then the switchbacks began.
Twenty-one grueling switchbacks climbed the canyon wall for the next half-mile. Some stretches felt much steeper than others, and the relentless climb quickly tested our legs. At last, the trail leveled out and led us into Refrigerator Canyon, a cool, shady stretch that gave us a welcome break from the climb.
Hiking the half-mile through Refrigerator Canyon gave us a much-needed break and a chance to recover before tackling the famous Walter’s Wiggles.
Our original goal was simply to make it to the Wiggles. When we reached them, however, we realized that Scout Lookout sat right at the top of the switchbacks. We had come this far, so we decided to keep going. Walter’s Wiggles may look short, but those 21 tight switchbacks climb steeply up the mountainside. We took our time, stopped often to catch our breath, and finally reached the top.
The view made every exhausting step worthwhile. Towering cliffs, deep canyons, and the winding Virgin River stretched out below us in a spectacular panorama.
We didn’t have a permit to continue to the top of Angels Landing, and we never planned to attempt that section. Lori has a terrible fear of heights, and the final stretch features narrow paths, steep drop-offs, and heart-stopping exposure. Angels Landing ranks among the world’s most dangerous and challenging hikes, and we felt perfectly happy stopping at Scout Lookout.
A great trip
All in all, we had a fantastic trip to Zion, but we probably won’t return. The park attracts huge crowds, and the sheer number of visitors felt overwhelming for us. We prefer quieter places where we can enjoy the scenery without constantly navigating crowds.
If you plan to visit Zion, arrive early and bring plenty of patience. Get there before 7:00 a.m. to secure a parking spot. Otherwise, you’ll need to park in Springdale, pay a considerable fee, and either take the short walk into the park or catch the free shuttle into Zion.
Thanks for stopping by!
Until next time – Much love,
Romin, Pete, & Lori
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Video: Scenic Drive into Zion
Video: Into The Narrows
Video: Hike Scout Lookout to Angels Landing Trailhead
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